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If you are planning to take tennis lessons or play tennis for exercise, first of all, you need to buy a tennis racket that works for you. There are a number of different rackets available today. It is hard to pick one, especially if you have no idea about what difference the various racket features will make to your game. You could really benefit by picking the right grip size, weight and head size.
Grip Size
The grip size of your racket will make a difference to how you play. If you want to keep your elbows, hand and wrist in place you should consider this factor very carefully. The grip size of your racket can be measured with a ruler starting with the middle crease of your palm up to the tip of your ring finger. Remember that a grip that is too big or too small can cause elbow problems in the process, possibly leading to tennis elbow. Not only that, it can also strain the muscles of your hand.
Racket Weight
Next thing to consider is the weight of your racket. Most of us think that a lighter racket is better. It doesn't need much effort to swing it. You can swing it perfectly in the air and it feels like nothing. True! A lighter racket can be swung faster and longer but you will have to hit the ball harder to have more power and in the end this will cause too much stress in your arm. Plus it absorbs more shock when hitting the ball, making your racket less stable. A heavier racket provides more stability and more power.
Head Size
As for the head size, for the beginners, it will be more favorable to have a large head size racket since it will have more possibility of hitting the ball. The larger the head of the racket, the more chance of hitting the sweet spot. Also, rackets which have larger heads, will provide more power. Once you have practised and gain more strength in playing you can change to a smaller head since it has better maneuverability and more control.
If you don't want to waste your money, the best advice I can give you, is to try different rackets and compare them before purchasing one. It should have a good feel that is natural. Your racket will serve as an extension of your arm and it should feel like it.
Understanding these factors will help you in picking the right racket for you. To find tennis rackets on the web you might visit http://www.toptennisrackets.com
Roger Savage is a teacher, Results Coach, NLP practitioner and internet marketer. Roger lives in Brisbane, Australia and is a keen surfer, fisherman and bushwalker (hiker/tramper). He also runs Sports Gear blog at http://www.sportsgearblog.com/. It is a guide to help you choose the right sports gear to suit you and then to find it on the internet. It covers a wide range of sport and fitness activities and equipment.
Basic Tennis - Part 1
Chop stroke.
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In Tennis, a chop stroke is a shot where the angle towards the player and behind the racquet, made by the line of flight of the ball, and the racquet travelling down across it, is greater than 45 degrees and may be 90 degrees. The racquet face passes slightly outside the ball and down the side, chopping it, as a man chops wood. The spin and curve is from right to left. It is made with a stiff wrist.
The slice shot merely reduced the angle mentioned from 45 degrees down to a very small one. The racquet face passes either inside or outside the ball, according to direction desired, while the stroke is mainly a wrist twist or slap. This slap imparts a decided skidding break to the ball, while a chop "drags" the ball off the ground without break.
The rules of footwork for both these shots should be the same as the drive, but because both are made with a short swing and more wrist play, without the need of weight, the rules of footwork may be more safely discarded and body position not so carefully considered.
Both these shots are essentially defensive, and are labour-saving devices when your opponent is on the baseline. A chop or slice is very hard to drive, and will break up any driving game.
It is not a shot to use against a volley, as it is too slow to pass and too high to cause any worry. It should be used to drop short, soft shots at the feet of the net man as he comes in. Do not strive to pass a net man with a chop or slice, except through a big opening.
The drop-shot is a very soft, sharply-angled chop stroke, played wholly with the wrist. It should drop within 3 to 5 feet of the net to be of any use. The racquet face passes around the outside of the ball and under it with a distinct "wrist turn." Do not swing the racquet from the shoulder in making a drop shot. The drop shot has no relation to a stop-volley. The drop shot is all wrist. The stop-volley has no wrist at all.
Use all your wrist shots, chop, slice, and drop, merely as an auxilliary to your orthodox game. They are intended to upset your opponent's game through the varied spin on the ball.
The half volley.
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This shot requires more perfect timing, eyesight, and racquet work than any other, since its margin of safety is smallest and its manifold chances of mishaps numberless.
It is a pick-up. The ball meets the ground and racquet face at nearly the same moment, the ball bouncing off the ground, on the strings. This shot is a stiff-wrist, short swing, like a volley with no follow through. The racquet face travels along the ground with a slight tilt over the ball and towards the net, thus holding the ball low; the shot, like all others in tennis, should travel across the racquet face, along the short strings. The racquet face should always be slightly outside the ball.
The half volley is essentially a defensive stroke, since it should only be made as a last resort, when caught out of position by your opponent's shot. It is a desperate attempt to extricate yourself from a dangerous position without retreating. never deliberately half volley.
Court position.
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A tennis court is 39 feet long from baseline to net. There are only two places in a tennis court that a tennis player should be to await the ball.
1. About 3 feet behind the baseline near the middle of the court, or
2. About 6 to 8 feet back from the net and almost opposite the ball.
The first is the place for all baseline players. The second is the net position.
If you are drawn out of these positions by a shot which you must return, do not remain at the point where you struck the ball, but attain one of the two positions mentioned as rapidly as possible.
The distance from the baseline to about 10, feet from the net may be considered as "no-man's-land" or "the blank." Never linger there, since a deep shot will catch you at your feet. After making your shot from the blank, as you must often do, retreat behind the baseline to await the return, so you may again come forward to meet the ball. If you are drawn in short and cannot retreat safely, continue all the way to the net position.
Never stand and watch your shot, for to do so simply means you are out of position for your next stroke. Strive to attain a position so that you always arrive at the spot the ball is going to before it actually arrives. Do your hard running while the ball is in the air, so you will not be hurried in your stroke after it bounces.
It is in learning to do this that natural anticipation plays a big role. Some players instinctively know where the next return is going and take position accordingly, while others will never sense it. It is to the latter class that I urge court position, and recommend always coming in from behind the baseline to meet the ball, since it is much easier to run forward than back.
Should you be caught at the net, with a short shot to your opponent, do not stand still and let him pass you at will, as he can easily do. Pick out the side where you think he will hit, and jump to, it suddenly as he swings. If you guess right, you win the point. If you are wrong, you are no worse off, since he would have beaten you anyway with his shot.
Your position should always strive to be such that you can cover the greatest possible area of court without sacrificing safety, since the straight shot is the surest, most dangerous, and must be covered. It is merely a question of how much more court than that immediately in front of the ball may be guarded.
A well-grounded knowledge of court position saves many points, to say nothing of much breath expended in long runs after hopeless shots.
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Snapping lots of strings?
i need to determine how much weight i need to attach to natural gut tennis strings, synthetic gut tennis strings, and polyester tennis strings, i just need a number that i can attach to it so it doesn't snap immediately but takes at least 3 weeks to snap. if you could also include where i could buy the weights that would be great thanks in advance!
I am sorry to tell you that tennis racket stringing doesn't actually work that way. How much tension you apply on a string bed actually depends on the racket and personal preference. While how often you snap your string depends on your swing, how hard and how much spin you employ, also the type of strings you use (for example, natural guts are generally easier to snap than polyester). There are some adjustments for different type of strings, but mainly more for playability purposes rather than durability. To save your string life, players usually go with strings that are designed for durability such as polyester, kevlar, etc.
Actually you don't buy weights to string a racket tennis. Instead you need to buy a stringing machine. A stringing machine can run from $145 to more than $3000. You can purchase one from any major online tennis store or eBay.
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